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Many years ago, actually the sale took place on October 10, 2006, the actress Ellen Barkin was getting divorced from Ron Perelman and she decided to sell most or almost all of the jewelry he had given her. Ms. Barkin's split from Mr. Perelman is another story. Christie's was the auction house of choice for the 91 lots of jewelry. The sale total was over $20 million dollars. Of the 91 lots, 17 pieces were from the jeweler JAR which stands for Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
Joel Arthur Rosenthal was the only child of a Bronx postal worker and a biology teacher. He graduated from Harvard in 1966 and moved to Paris where he met his boyfriend and future business associate, Pierre Jeannet, a Swiss psychiatrist. His first business venture was a needlepoint shop where he experimented with unusually colored yarn. His clients included designers from Hermes and Valentino.
As the story goes, one day he asked if he could design a mount for a gemstone, hence opening up a new career path. He had a brief career as a salesman at Bulgari in New York and then returned to Paris in 1977 and started designing his own work on inexpensive stones like coral, moonstone and small colored diamonds. The rest as they say, is history.
JAR became a very select, almost secretive jeweler. His shop in Paris' Place Vendome had no display window and no regular hours. He did no advertising but managed to sell to Elizabeth Taylor, Elle Macpherson, Barbara Walters, Ann Getty, Lily Safra, Jo Carole Lauder and Ellen Barkin. Don't worry, there are many other famous names that own JAR pieces. In May of 2012, Lily Safra sold off 18 JAR pieces, all went for double, triple the estimates. Mr. Rosenthal has shown himself to be a very smart salesman as well as an exceptional artist.
Although his work has enjoyed a cult-like following among the fashion cognoscenti for decades, JAR remained something of a best-kept secret until the landmark sale of the Ellen Barkin collection at Christie’s, which drew so many exceptional examples of his work into the spotlight.
He reserves the right to refuse to sell an item if he doesn't think it would look good on the intended. Rumor has it he has exercised this right.
Over the 30 years he has been making jewelry, JAR has accumulated a tight circle of friends, dealers and collectors who speak of him in worshipful tones and don’t answer questions without his approval.
He focused on pave, a technique for setting small stones so close together that they form a vertiable pavement of jewels. He pieces are usually built around exceptional gemstones. He is a master at blending the colors of gemstones.
November 20,2013 through March 9, 2014, Jewels by JAR will open at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The exhibit will feature more than 300 works by one, Joel A. Rosenthal. The exhibition will be the first retrospective of his work in America; the only other major exhibition of Rosenthal’s work was held in 2002 at Somerset House in London. In London, four hundred pieces lent by 145 JAR faithful were crowded into small vitrines. He insisted that the lights be dimmed and that flashlights be given to his guests, who groped and gaped their way from case to case.
The exhibition in New York is made possible by Phaidon Press Limited, Nancy and Howard Marks, and The Ronald and Jo Carole Lauder Foundation.
Mrs. Jones will definitely be attending this exhibit.
ttfn
Lily Safra's diamond, pink and green tourmaline Poppy flower brooch, by JAR, 1982. Sold for $1,272,245 from an estimate: $500,000-700,000.
Line Vautrin's ravishing costume jewels and sculpted objets are the epitome of Parisian Neo-Romantic chic. Most of her treasured items were made in the forties and fifties, of resins, glass and bronze. Vautrin's creations do not belong to any of the traditional genres of jewelry. They are little miracles of inventiveness, of subtle skill and endless experimentation. There is a love of the primitive, repeated motifs, patterns and fine attention to detail in every piece.
Line Vautrin was born on April 28th 1913 in Paris to a family of metal founders. Even as a small child she was fascinated by her father's business. By 14 she had mastered some of the skills of casting, chasing and gilding. Unfortunately her father also died that year. At 15, she hit upon the idea, then quite novel, of making artistic costume jewelry. She never received a formal art education, she just had a good working knowledge of her craft and was not afraid to experiment.
Her first job was with Schiaparelli as the official "greeter", welcoming customers with a "Good morning" or "Good afternoon". She lasted four days. After that she worked for a few weeks as a sales representative for industrial photographs before deciding to strike out on her own. From that time on, she was her own boss. Line began to design bracelets and set out as a door to door saleswoman. While her designs were popular, she struggled to make ends meet but she also continued to experiment with different materials.
The turning point was when she exhibited at the Paris International Exposition of 1937. She attracted enough of a clientele that she was able to open a small shop "the cupboard" on the Rue de Berri.
Line Vautrin drew inspiration from universal themes: love, friendship, the four elements, the four seasons, good/evil, masculine/feminine, moon/sun, yin and yang and gold/silver. She also always employed her unique sense of humor and her love of poetry.
The manufacturing and launching of her boxes and tins are what made her famous. Not content with developing a new technique and inventing novel shapes, she had fun creating conundrums, codes and rebuses inspired by famous legends and by love. She let her imagination run wild and delighted in combining sections of poems, proverbs and popular expressions into riddles.
She was an independent woman, innovator and artist that was way ahead of her time. Line Vautrin died on April 12, 1997.
To see a wide collection of Line Vautrin's items, head to;
http://www.1stdibs.com/introspective/capsule_collection/line_vautrin_boxes/?utm_source=wedmailer&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=may_29_2013
Here are some of my favorite pieces. I hope you appreciate them as much as I do.
"Ophelia"
A bronze doré box
"The Crowd" A bronze argenté box
"That's life"
Happy Summer! This past Saturday my twins and I headed into downtown DC to go to the Eastern Market, a wonderful in and outdoor farmers market, craft fair and prepared food happening. We always get a homemade pickle from the pickle man, a pretzel bagel dog and a homemade iced limeade or lemonade. Then, we shop. We always bring home dinner. Fresh veggies, homemade pasta, organic meat, whatever our heart's desire. My girls both found some very unique, costume jewelry. It was really hot, like 95 degrees and really, really humid. Yuck! I digress.
The market got me thinking about veggies and jewelry, nature and jewelry and lo and behold......Hemmerle! Their redesigned site opened this week and what a treat it is. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
Cut and paste on the link below. Here is just a little "taste" of what their collection. So different, so unique!
www.hemmerle.com/projects/delicious-jewels/
Eastern Market
In two days time we will celebrate the 237th birthday of our country. Happy Birthday America! In our little village we have a very traditional, small town, community day that everyone loves to attend. It is just wonderful and one of the nicest days of the year. We start with a 5K Trail Walk/Run, followed by the "Little Patriot Parade" or as my kids call it, the baby parade. The little kids are dressed in their special little red, white and blue outfits and arrive in decorated wagons, buggies or backpacks. I believe there is still a prize for best dressed child and best decorated vehicle. The baby parade is followed by the blood drive and then the main parade which includes vintage cars, a fire truck and politicians. There are lots of older kids on bikes or scooters and lots of walkers. Finally, there are games and festivities with lots of food and ice cream. A wonderful day. Last year and now this year, we moved our fireworks to the Saturday after the fourth. Last year we were still suffering the effects of the Derecho and no one had power! I think it might be a new tradition!
Have a wonderful fourth! Enjoy your family and friends!
ttfn,
Mrs. Jones
Greetings from Denver, Colorado!
Mrs. Jones is visiting the 5280 city and what magnificent weather we are experiencing. Just gorgeous. There is nothing like the blue sky of Colorado, I call it Colorado blue. Speaking of blue, I was reading an article in the Bonhams magazine about one of their recent jewelry sales that took place in April of this year. A huge blue and white diamond ring was offered as the last lot of the auction in London. During the past ten years, fewer than 30 blue diamonds of more than five carats have been auctioned, and there was a crackle of expectation that records would be broken. The estimate for the ring was $1.5 million to $2.3 million dollars. With standing room only, the voices of the 25 staff manning the telephones increased in volume. As the price climbed, only two bidders remained. When Matthew Girling, chief executive of Bonhams Europe, brought down the hammer, a new world record had been set. The 5.3 carat diamond had gone to one of the most famous jewelers in the world, Laurence Graff, who spent a little over $9.5 million dollars, setting a record of $1.8 million dollars per carat. The "trombino" deep blue diamond ring was designed by Bulgari, circa 1965. Natural blue diamonds are among the rarest fancy color diamonds in the world. With all auction houses once again reporting record sales, I think it is safe to say the recession is over.
An important fancy deep blue diamond "Trombino" ring, circa 1965 designed by Bulgari. The diamond weighs 5.30 carats.
Fancy blue diamonds always seem to cause quite a commotion when put on the auction block. The blue diamond above is a 10.48 carat fancy deep blue briolette diamond sold at Sotheby's in November 2012. It set two new world records with its final hammer price of $10.86 million. The first record was the world auction record for price per carat for a fancy deep blue diamond and the second record was for a world auction record for a briolette cut.
The blue colour in the diamond is caused by trace elements of boron, classing it as Type IIb. Boron causes blue diamonds to become semi-conductors of electricity and the blue colour intensifies when the diamond is warm. Type IIb diamonds can also phosphoresce under short-wave UV light and glow red for several seconds.
Wish I owned one!
ttfn,
Mrs. Jones
The Power of Platinum
The price of platinum today is $1427.00 an ounce. Gold is $1366.75 an ounce. It has been quite a ride for precious metals in the last couple of years. It has been a challenge to manage those costs in the jewelry business.
Platinum is one of those supercharged words that always signified the best of the best. Jewelry made of platinum has a status and image unlike any other. This is nothing new, platinum's desirability and use go back thousands of years.
The metal was coveted by the ancient Egyptians, discovered centuries later by the Incas and prized by members of the French royal court. Before its was declared off-limits during World War II, platinum was king in important jewelry the world over. Platinum ruled the Edwardian age of jewelry. Its beauty, versatility and style were "rediscovered" in the early 1990s, and today, one in four brides chooses platinum for her wedding rings.
One of the wonderful things about platinum is its purity. When you buy 18 karat gold, you are getting 18/24ths, or 75% gold. When you buy platinum, you are getting 85% to 95% pure platinum. Most jewelry sold in the US is 85% to 95% pure platinum and will be marked with the appropriate stamp. If a piece is at least 95% pure, it may be simply labeled "PLATINUM". This high purity make the metal tarnish resistant and hypoallergenic as well.
Platinum, Jade, Diamond and Enamel Earrings
ART DECO CARVED HARDSTONE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, FRENCH, CIRCA 1925 – photo courtesy of Sotheby’s
CABOCHON EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, JAR, PARIS – Sotheby’s
| Alloy | Weight % Pt | Weight % additive | Suitability |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pt-Palladium | 95%-85% | 5%-15% | Pt900-Pd (the 900 being parts per thousand) forms a great compromise between hardness and workability, it can be cast, welded and soldered and is favored in Japan and China. Pt850-Pd is preferred by chain makers because of its higher ductility. |
| Pt-Cobalt | 95% | 5% | This alloy is easily cast and produces hard, durable jewelry which has been favored in Europe. |
| Pt-Iridium | 95%-90% | 5%-10% | Traditionally Pt900-Ir was the alloy of choice in the US. It can be cast, welded, machined and stamped. It is ductile and malleable, can be hardened through working and doesn't oxidize. Recently Pt950/Ir has become more popular in the States. |
| Pt-Copper | 97%-95% | 3%-5% | Platinum-copper alloys can be readily machined or worked by hand but are not as suitable for casting. |
| Pt-Ruthenium | 95% | 5% | Platinum-Ruthenium has good all-round machining properties and is well-suited to high volume manufacturing processes. It is widely used for the manufacturing of wedding bands in the US and favored by Swiss watch makers. |
Platinum is also one of the rarest precious metals on earth and is found in only a few locations. The most vital and principal deposits of platinum are based in the United States, South America, South Africa, Russia and Canada. South Africa and Russia are probably the two largest producers right now.
ttfn,
Mrs. Jones
I love serpent jewelry. Love it. It is really popular right now. It tends to go in and out of fashion kind of like the skull motif which I also adore and liked before it was all the rage. I digress. Serpent jewelry, how to wear a snake.
2013 is the year of the snake in the lunar astrological calendar. People born in the year of the snake appreciate beauty and enjoy fashion. It's a feminine sign, associated with luxury and style.
The snake is also one of the most enduring inspirations for jewelry, from Cleopatra's bangle to Queen Victoria's engagement ring, a symbol of eternal love and eternal life. Prince Albert presented Queen Victoria with a snake ring that was set with an emerald head, emerald being the Queen's birthstone.
Today snake jewelry is as fashionable as ever, with snaky styles by Lorraine Schwartz, Stephen Webster, Bulgari, Boucheron and Neil Lane. Zoe Saldana wore a snake ring to the Oscars. Rhianna and Alicia Keys were adorned with serpent jewlery at the Grammys and Julianne Moore wore a Bulgari snake bracelet to the Golden Globes.
The year of the snake is a year of fabulous fashionable serpent jewelry, here are a couple of my favorites, including a bracelet and necklace for sale at Mrs. Jones & Co.!
Enjoy!
Roman Rings from 1 AD: as stylish now as they were then
Victorian Turquoise Snake Bangle with Ruby Eyes, circa 1850
Cleopatra's Iconic Gold Snake Arm Band
Dramatic Kasumiga Pearl Earrings by Lydia Courteille
18 Karat Mesh Bracelet, Mrs. Jones & Co.
A handmade reclaimed brass and leather necklace at Mrs. Jones & Co.
Hello!
Today seems to be a wonderful day to start my blog. It is sunny, 79 degrees and there is no humidity in the air on June 5th. Unheard of in Northern Virginia. I have spent most of the day outside and forced myself to come in and create my first post. I have been thinking a lot about how much I like the June birthstones, pearl, moonstone and alexandrite. Pearls and moonstones are two of my favorite gemstones so beautiful and unassuming, available in a variety of colors and shapes. I love them! Alexandrite is a curious blend of two colors, which color displays itself is dependent upon the light at the time. It is green in both daylight and fluorescent light and purplish red in incandescent light. A really good color change is hard to find and pretty costly. I love gems and jewelry!
Here are some fun photos of moonstone earrings, a pearl bracelet and a beautiful color change alexandrite. Enjoy!
ttfn,
Mrs. Jones
